I have over the years found numerous books in second hand shops cheaper than I can find on eBay and they are great references. Each are worth the cost to have on the reference shelf. Publication) Swan PublishingĮach describes the method with photos and detailed articles better than I can. Superfine White Milliput is specially formulated for the restoration of porcelain and ceramics where a fine finish. If you pick up one of the following books.ĪRCHITECTURAL MODELLING 4mm Scale - (U.K. You can't get any better texture than a product that looks and feels like real stone. I then leave it to form up overnight and it can be painted the next day. I then sculpt the stonework, brickwork etc.
What I do is build the basic structure from plywood and then cover the surface with DAS. PUTTY AND FILLER There are three principal types of modelling putty: plaster of Paris, polymer clays and epoxy putty. Lacquer putty can be pretty dangerous.ĭAS can be used to cover the entire front to make the complete wall. putty type of epoxy, use Milliput or a similar modellers ribbon epoxy. Never dry sand a lacquer based unless your outside and protecting yourself from the dust (gloves, mask, something over clothing.) If you wet sand it, be sure to wear gloves aswell. kind found in craft stores like Hobby Lobby, Michaels, or Jo-Ann Fabrics. It also can be thinned with liquid cement for small cracks and it is red so its easy to see where you put it. rough up the surface of the plastic a bit. I prefer to use ModelMaster putty because it gives you lots of working time, but still dries in under half an hour. Michael Hatch has used the PART sets to great effect on a Revell Tiger kit.
There are some other ones, but I wouldn't recommend them. Dries very quick and very little working time. Squadron White- Fine grain putty that is plant based. ModelMaster- Similar to Bondo by quicker drying. Some can be found at auto stores, some can be found on sites such as and In your auto store you can find these kinds:īondo- A lacquer based putty which gives you a lot of working time.ģM Blue Acrylic- An acrylic based putty that is quick drying. I’ve heard people carve designs into soap and then press the designs into Green Stuff to make multiple repeat intricate armour designs.I am pretty sure you mean seam filling putty and there a bunch of different kinds. You can also press designs and shapes into your Green Stuff armour/fabric pieces. You can change the size of the rivets based on the diameter you roll out the Green Stuff sausage. Great for sculpting, bonding, embellishing. If you prefer round rivets roll out a thin sausage, leave to cure and then slice up into thin discs and glue those on. Aves Apoxie Sculpt combines the features and benefits of sculpting clay with the adhesive power of epoxy. To add detail to your armour such as rivets you can cut a strip into small squares once it’s cured and then super glue on square rivets. You can use the banner trick to create straps, saddles, harnesses and armour! It just depends upon how thick you roll it out. Suitable for any modeling putty, Apoxie Sculpt, Greenpower. These simple techniques can be used to create all manner of different things. Prepared in strict collaboration with Michael Mass of Desert Eagle.
Michaels milliput putty how to#
How to use Green Stuff for sculpting more complex designs Then repeat the process for the other side. We produce five grades: Standard Yellow/Grey, Silver Grey, Superfine White, Terracotta, and the latest. Leave the banner to cure properly (24 hours is fine). Milliput is the trade name for our epoxy putty. Use a pin or the tip of your knife to carefully lift one of the stitches, gently dab it in the super glue blob and apply it to the banner. Squirt a blob of super glue onto an old mixing palette. Milliput 113gm Epoxy Putty Superfine: Superfine (for porceline) Milliput is the trade name for our epoxy putty. These will become the stitching for the fabric joins.ġ2. Remember to make sure your surface and tools are always wet.ġ1. Take one of the Green Stuff off-cuts and cut a strip. Use the non-sharp part of your blade to press a line into the greenstuff to resemble a join in the fabric.ġ0.
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